You reach the top of the 28 bends at 10:30 AM. The UNESCO Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas encompass Tiger Leaping Gorge within one of China’s most important natural heritage zones. You sit on a rock. Below you, the Jinsha River is a green thread 1,800 metres down. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain fills the sky to the south, 5,596 metres of it, still with snow in April.
You are breathing harder than you expected. You drink water and eat half a biscuit. The trail ahead winds along the cliff face for another 12 km. Tiger Leaping Gorge is genuinely one of the finest hikes in Asia. Here is how to do it. For the Yunnan context: Yunnan Itinerary.
Key Takeaways
- Upper trail: 2 days. 16 km. Guesthouse at the halfway point.
- No guide, no permit required for the standard upper trail.
- 28 Bends sounds scary, takes 30 to 45 minutes. More manageable than its reputation.
- Best months: April to June and September to November.
- Packing: layers, rain jacket, good boots with grip. Packing guide.
- Gorge entry fee: ¥65. Collected at a checkpoint near Qiaotou.
The Route
| Day | Section | Distance | Time | End Point |
| Day 1 morning | Qiaotou to 28 Bends top | 5 km | 2.5 to 3h | Stone waterfall viewpoint |
| Day 1 afternoon | 28 Bends top to Halfway Guesthouse | 6 km | 2 to 2.5h | Halfway Guesthouse (~2,400m) |
| Day 2 morning | Halfway to Tina’s/Tea Horse Guesthouse | 5 km | 2 to 2.5h | Lower gorge area |
| Day 2 afternoon | Minibus back to Lijiang | 50 km | 1.5h | Lijiang |
Getting to Qiaotou
Minibuses from Lijiang’s Gucheng bus station leave for Qiaotou between 8:00 and 9:30 AM. ¥35 per person. Journey: 1.5 hours. Tell the driver you are hiking the gorge. He will drop you at the Qiaotou upper trail entrance, not the vehicle road. This matters.
Day 1: Qiaotou to Halfway Guesthouse
The 28 Bends
Within the first hour you reach the 28 Bends: a steep series of switchbacks that gain 200 vertical metres. Take it slowly. Stop as often as you need. At around 1,900 metres, your lungs will remind you that you are higher than Denver. At the top: the gorge view opens below you. It is worth every step.
The middle section
After the 28 Bends, the trail becomes a traversal: staying high on the gorge wall with the river far below. The section passes a stone waterfall, a tea house, and several rest points. Halfway Guesthouse (also called Naxi Family Guesthouse) is about 11 km from Qiaotou. Book a room by calling ahead or arriving before 4pm. Dinner: ¥40 to ¥60 for a set meal. The sunset from the terrace is very good.
Day 2: Halfway to the End
The second day is shorter and easier. The trail descends toward the valley floor and eventually reaches the paved road. Follow the road (or the trail parallel to it) to Tina’s Guesthouse or the Tea Horse Guesthouse. From there, arrange a minibus back to Lijiang (¥30 to ¥40, or have your guesthouse call one). Alternatively, continue through to Walnut Grove village for one more night before returning.
What to Pack
- Hiking shoes with grip. The trail has loose sections. Sandals or trainers are dangerous.
- Rain jacket. The gorge creates its own microclimate. Rain can appear from nowhere.
- Water: 2 litres minimum per day. Water is available at guesthouses but not always on trail.
- Cash. Guesthouses and the gorge fee point do not accept Alipay reliably.
- Warm layer for the evening. Halfway Guesthouse sits at 2,400 metres. Nights are cold.
- Sunscreen. The altitude and reflection from rock faces are intense.
Frequently Asked Questions
For Yunnan planning: Yunnan Itinerary. For packing the right gear: China Packing List.