The French Concession is where you come when you want Shanghai to slow down. The streets here have been shaded by London plane trees since the 1920s. The buildings are a mix of Art Deco mansions, classical European villas, and 1930s apartment blocks. The cafes opened in the 1990s and have gotten progressively better since. The neighborhood moves at a different speed from the Bund or Pudong. It is Shanghai for people who live there rather than people who visit it. For the full city guide: Shanghai Travel Guide.
Key Takeaways
- Best walked without a tight plan. Anfu Road, Wukang Road, Fuxing Road, Yuyuan Road.
- Wukang Mansion is the photographed building. Best at 8am before crowds.
- Tianzifang: go before 10am. Tourists fill the alleys by noon.
- Fuxing Park morning culture starts at 6:30am. Tai chi, tango, card games.
- Book dinner restaurants 3 to 5 days ahead. Jesse, Shen Yong Xing, and others fill up.
- Jing’an is the natural extension north of the French Concession. More in the city guide.
The Walking Route
Anfu Road
Starting point for many French Concession walks. Shanghai’s most café-dense street: independent roasters, Italian espresso bars, a Japanese milk bread bakery. At 9am on a weekday, the street is quiet enough to walk slowly and look at the buildings. By 11am it is full.
Wukang Road and Wukang Mansion
Wukang Road runs southeast from Huashan Road to Fuxing Road. Wukang Mansion sits at the curve where the road bends at the Fuxing Road intersection. The building’s prow faces you like a ship’s bow. It was designed by Laszlo Hudec in 1924 and is now a listed heritage building. The shops and cafes at the building’s base have occupied every available ground-floor space. The best photographs: taken from 50 metres back along Wukang Road before 9am.
Fuxing Park
A small park on Fuxing Road that was a private garden during the French Concession era. Now a public park known for its extraordinary morning culture. At 6:30am: retired Shanghainese arrive to do Argentine tango on the paths (a genuine tradition since the 1940s), tai chi in the grass, badminton between the plane trees. The tango dancers are the most surprising. They practice daily regardless of season.
Tianzifang
A 10-minute walk southeast from Xintiandi. Metro Line 9 to Dapuqiao station. Tianzifang is a warren of narrow alleys between renovated shikumen houses, filled with craft shops, art studios, cafes, and small restaurants. Go before 10am for the quiet atmospheric version. After noon it is a tourist experience. Both versions are fine; the timing determines which one you get.
Food in the French Concession
The French Concession has more good restaurants than any other neighborhood in Shanghai. The problem: the best ones need advance booking. Jesse Restaurant (吉士酒家), the most celebrated Hong Shao Rou (red-braised pork) in Shanghai, is routinely full for days. Use Dianping (大众点评, the Chinese Yelp) to find and book. For the xiaolongbao specifically: Best Xiaolongbao in Shanghai.
Frequently Asked Questions
For Shanghai overview: Shanghai Travel Guide. For the 3-day Shanghai itinerary: 3-Day Shanghai Itinerary.