The landscape on China’s 20-yuan note is not a painting. The UNESCO Li River landscape is listed as a World Heritage site. It is a photograph of a real place: the karst peaks near Xingping on the Li River in Guangxi province. You can stand on a bamboo raft at 9am on a clear morning and hold the note up and find the exact frame.
This is Guilin and Yangshuo: one of the most extraordinary landscapes in Asia and also one of the most accessible. For the cruise vs raft decision: Li River Cruise vs Bamboo Raft.
At a Glance
| Item | Detail |
| Best months | September to November (clear). April to May (misty, painterly). |
| Avoid | Golden Week Oct 1-7. June rainy peak. Both bring extreme crowds. |
| Stay in | Yangshuo, not Guilin. Guilin is a transit hub. |
| Essential activity | Li River cruise OR bamboo raft from Xingping. Do one. |
| Second essential | Cycling or e-bike through the Yulong River valley countryside. |
| Getting there | G-train from Guangzhou: 2.5h. Fly from most Chinese cities. |
Guilin vs Yangshuo: The Honest Difference
Guilin is where most tours start because it has the airport and the Li River cruise departure piers. As Chinese cities go, it is pleasant but unremarkable. The Elephant Trunk Hill and Reed Flute Cave are the main city attractions: worth a morning, no more. Yangshuo, 83 km south at the end of the Li River, is where the experience actually lives.
It is a small town surrounded on all sides by vertical karst peaks, with cycling routes running through rice paddies and ancient villages between the mountains. The calculation is simple: arrive into Guilin, take the cruise to Yangshuo, spend 2 to 3 nights in Yangshuo, and return to Guilin only to depart.
The Li River
The Li River flows 83 km from Guilin to Yangshuo through the most dramatic section of the karst landscape. The classic experience is the cruise (4 to 5 hours, covers the full distance) or a bamboo raft from Xingping (1 to 1.5 hours, the most scenic section). Both give you the same mountains. The scale, pace, and intimacy differ completely. Full comparison: Li River Cruise vs Bamboo Raft.
What to Do in Yangshuo
Cycling or e-biking the countryside
The Yulong River valley west of Yangshuo is flat, beautiful, and easily cycled. Rent an e-bike (¥50 to ¥80 per day) from any guesthouse on West Street. The route passes the ancient Yulong Bridge (600-year-old stone arch), rice paddies with karst peaks above them, and villages that have existed since the Ming dynasty. Full cycling guide: Yangshuo Cycling Route.
Bamboo rafting on the Yulong River
The Yulong is the smaller tributary that runs west of Yangshuo town. Unlike the Li River ‘bamboo’ rafts (which are actually PVC pipes with motors), the Yulong rafts are genuinely hand-punted: no engine, just a pole and the current.
The Shuiedi to Gongnong Bridge route (50 minutes, ¥200 per raft for two people) passes under ancient stone bridges and through narrow gorge sections where the peaks close in on both sides. Non-motorized, quiet, and genuinely peaceful.
Moon Hill and the surrounding villages
Moon Hill (月亮山) is a limestone peak 8 km south of Yangshuo with a large natural arch near the summit. Cycle there (30 minutes from town), lock your bike at the base, and climb the 800 steps to the arch. The view from inside the arch over the surrounding valley and karst fields is the classic Yangshuo photograph. Entry ¥15. Climb takes 30 to 40 minutes.
Longji Rice Terraces Day Trip
The Longji terraces (Dragon’s Backbone) are 2 hours from Guilin by bus in the mountains of northern Guangxi. Stepped rice paddies cascade down steep hillsides, tended by Zhuang and Yao minority villages. Best in May (flooded, terraces reflect the sky like mirrors) or October (ripe golden rice). A full day trip from Yangshuo is possible but tight: easier as a day trip from Guilin. Full guide: Longji Rice Terraces Guide.
What to Eat
| Dish | What It Is | Where |
| Beer Fish (啤酒鱼) | Yangshuo’s signature: fresh river fish braised in local Liquan beer with chili. Rich, slightly sweet. | Everywhere in Yangshuo. Try restaurants near the river, not West Street tourist strip. |
| Rice noodles (桂林米粉) | Guilin’s everyday breakfast: thin rice noodles in broth with pork, pickled beans, chili. ¥8 to ¥15. | Local noodle shops, 7 to 10am. |
| Stuffed Li River snails (螺蛳粉) | Rice noodle soup with snails, bamboo shoots, peanuts. Acquired taste. Worth trying. | Guilin restaurants and street stalls. |
| Osmanthus wine (桂花酒) | Light floral wine made from osmanthus flowers. Guilin specialty. | Local restaurants and markets. |
Getting Between Guilin and Yangshuo
| Method | Time | Cost | Notes |
| Li River cruise | 4 to 5 hours | ¥210 to ¥490 | One-way Guilin to Yangshuo. The scenic route. |
| Bus from Guilin Bus Station | 1.5 hours | ¥25 | Frequent departures. Practical return option. |
| DiDi | 1 hour | ¥120 to ¥180 | Private car, direct, no stops. |
| High-speed train | 30 minutes | ¥30 | Station is 30 min outside Yangshuo town center. |
Frequently Asked Questions
For the cruise vs raft decision: Li River Cruise vs Bamboo Raft. For Longji: Longji Rice Terraces Guide. For countryside cycling: Yangshuo Cycling Route.