There is a Chinese saying: 上有天堂，下有苏杭. Above is heaven; below are Suzhou and Hangzhou. This assessment has held for over a thousand years. Marco Polo visited in the 13th century and spent several pages trying to describe a city he considered beyond European comparison. The city has changed enormously since then. West Lake has not.
The UNESCO World Heritage Committee listed it in 2011 as a cultural landscape representing ten centuries of Chinese garden and poetry culture. Here is how to see Hangzhou properly. For Hangzhou as a day trip from Shanghai: Suzhou and Hangzhou from Shanghai.
At a Glance
| Item | Detail |
| Best months | April to May (blossoms, tea harvest). September to November (clear, osmanthus, golden light). |
| Avoid | June to July (plum rain season). Golden Week (October 1-7). |
| Getting there | G-train from Shanghai: 45 minutes, ¥73. |
| Stay near | West Lake north shore or Qingbo Gate area for easy lake access. |
| Must do | West Lake at dawn. Longjing tea plantation. Lingyin Temple. |
| Secret weapon | Go to the lake at 6am. You will have it almost entirely to yourself. |
West Lake
West Lake is a 6.38 square kilometre freshwater lake surrounded by hills, causeways, pagodas, and gardens. It is the most famous lake in China and the landscape that has defined Chinese poetic sensibility for a millennium. How to make the most of it: West Lake Hangzhou Guide.
The timing secret
The lake is visited by thousands daily. At noon it can feel like a theme park. At 6am it is another world entirely. The Su Causeway at dawn: fishermen on glassy water, elderly residents doing tai chi under the plane trees, the distant mountains appearing through morning mist. The difference between visiting West Lake at 7am and at 11am is as significant as the difference between visiting the Forbidden City at 8:30am and at noon. Set the alarm. It is worth it.
The causeways
Two main causeways cross the lake. Su Causeway (苏堤, 2.8 km) was built by poet-governor Su Dongpo in the 11th century. It is shaded by willows and peach trees that flower pink in early April. Bai Causeway (白堤, 1 km) is shorter and connects Broken Bridge (断桥) on the east shore to Gu Shan island. Both are free to walk. Broken Bridge at dawn in winter, dusted with snow, is the setting of China’s most famous love legend. Both causeways connect to rental bicycle stations.
Longjing Tea
Hangzhou is the birthplace of Longjing (Dragon Well) tea, one of China’s ten most celebrated teas. The tea fields cover the hillsides west of the lake. During the spring harvest in late March to early April, the 头芽 (tóuyá, first flush) leaves are the most prized and most expensive. Full plantation guide: Longjing Tea and Plantations Guide.
The tea warning
Authentic West Lake Longjing is expensive and geographically restricted. The protected origin zone is small, and demand far exceeds genuine supply. If a vendor is selling ‘Longjing’ at ¥30 per 100g, it is not real Longjing. Genuine first flush West Lake Longjing costs ¥300 to ¥3,000 per 100g depending on grade and timing. To avoid fakes: buy directly from a tea farmer in Meijiawu or Longjing Village, or from the official Longjing tea shops.
Lingyin Temple
One of China’s most important Buddhist temples, founded in 328 AD by an Indian monk. The temple complex includes Feilai Feng cliff, a limestone hill covered in over 340 Buddhist carvings dating from the Five Dynasties period through the Yuan dynasty. Full guide: Lingyin Temple Guide.
Jingci Temple: the quiet alternative
Jingci Temple (净慈寺) sits on the south shore of West Lake opposite Lingyin. Free entry (open 6:30am to 5:30pm). Active monastery with hourly Buddhist chanting. Far less crowded than Lingyin, equally historic, and the reflection of the temple in South Lake on a calm morning is exceptional. Visit during lunch hours (11:30am to 1pm) when tour groups disperse. This is where Hangzhou residents actually go when they want a quiet temple visit.
What to Eat in Hangzhou
| Dish | What It Is | Where |
| Dongpo Pork (东坡肉) | Pork belly slow-braised in Shaoxing wine and soy until it trembles on the chopstick. Named for Su Dongpo. | Lou Wai Lou on West Lake (expensive but authentic). Avoid cheaper versions at scenic area restaurants. |
| Longjing Shrimp (龙井虾仁) | River shrimp stir-fried with first flush Longjing tea leaves. Delicate. Seasonal (spring). | Any good Hangzhou restaurant. Specify 明前龙井虾仁 for spring-harvest version. |
| West Lake Vinegar Fish (西湖醋鱼) | Grass carp cooked in a sweet-sour vinegar sauce. Iconic but varies wildly in quality. | Lou Wai Lou for authentic. Avoid scenic-area spots that use frozen fish. |
| Beggar’s Chicken (叫花鸡) | Whole chicken stuffed with mushroom and herbs, sealed in clay and baked. The clay is cracked tableside. | Louwailou or traditional restaurants. Order 24 hours ahead. |
| Zhiweiguan breakfast | Century-old brand. Order shrimp soup dumplings (虾肉小笼) and osmanthus sugar porridge (桂花糖粥). | Multiple Zhiweiguan locations throughout the city. |
Frequently Asked Questions
For West Lake in depth: West Lake Guide. For the tea plantations: Longjing Tea Guide. For Lingyin Temple: Lingyin Temple Guide. For how many days: How Many Days in Hangzhou.