An Indian monk named Huili arrived in Hangzhou in 326 AD. He saw a limestone hill and recognized it as one he knew from home. He concluded it must have flown here from India and named it Feilai Feng: the Peak That Flew Here. He built a temple at its base, calling it Lingyin: Temple of the Soul’s Retreat. 1,700 years later, the temple is one of the wealthiest and most active monasteries in China.
The cliff face behind it is covered in a thousand years of Buddhist carvings. The Lingyin Temple draws millions of visitors annually. For the Hangzhou context: Hangzhou Travel Guide.
Key Takeaways
- Arrive at 8am opening time. Tour groups arrive from 9:30am. The first 90 minutes are significantly quieter.
- Feilai Feng carvings (¥45) are the reason to come. Do not skip them for the temple.
- Lingyin Temple entry is additional ¥30 after the scenic area ticket.
- Eat the Luohan noodles (¥25) in the temple canteen. Vegetarian, excellent, unique.
- Jingci Temple (free) on the south lake shore is the uncrowded alternative.
- Dress modestly. Cover shoulders and knees, or borrow a shawl at the gate (¥20 deposit).
Feilai Feng: The Main Attraction
Before entering the temple, spend at least 45 minutes on Feilai Feng. The limestone hill has natural grottoes and caves threaded with walking paths. The carvings cover the full range of Buddhist iconography from the 10th to 14th centuries: small niches with single seated figures, large 3-metre standing bodhisattvas, and the famous Laughing Buddha (Maitreya, the future Buddha) shown as the round-bellied jolly figure that Western culture has adopted as generically ‘Buddhist’.
This carving tradition at Feilai Feng predates the popularization of the Laughing Buddha image and shows him in his original context.
The carvings by period
The oldest carvings (Five Dynasties period, 10th century) are smaller and more formally carved, reflecting Indian-influenced Tang Buddhist iconography. The Yuan dynasty carvings (13th to 14th century) show Tibetan Buddhist influence, introduced when Kublai Khan brought Tibetan monks to the Hangzhou court. The mixture of Chinese, Indian, and Tibetan Buddhist imagery in one cliff face is unusual and tells a specific story about the Silk Road exchange of religious culture.
The Temple Complex
Hall of the Heavenly Kings
The first major hall after the main gate. The Maitreya statue (the reclining Laughing Buddha) sits facing the entrance. Behind it, facing north toward the main sanctuary, stands Weituo (the Guardian of the Dharma) in full armor. The four Heavenly Kings flanking the hall entrance are among the finest Ming dynasty guardian statues in China.
Mahavira Hall (Daxiong Baodian)
The main hall. The Sakyamuni Buddha statue sits 24 metres high on a lotus throne. It was carved from 24 separate camphor wood sections in 1956. The hall also houses 20 Devaraja statues along the side walls, each unique in posture and expression. Photography is not permitted inside the hall.
The Hall of 500 Arhats
Contains 500 bronze Arhat statues, each with a different face and posture. A Hangzhou tradition: find the Arhat corresponding to your birthday (instructions posted at the hall entrance), count to that number, note the name and image, and receive a fortune slip from the adjacent incense counter. Whether or not you are Buddhist, the hall of 500 individual bronze portraits is one of the most extraordinary sculptural spaces in China.
The Vegetarian Noodles
At the temple’s east side, past the Hall of 500 Arhats, a canteen serves temple vegetarian food. The 罗汉面 (Luohan Noodles, ¥25) are thin wheat noodles in a light vegetarian broth with bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and pressed tofu. The taste is clean and warming. Eat them before the lunch crowds (before 11am) for the quietest experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
For the Hangzhou overview: Hangzhou Travel Guide. For West Lake: West Lake Guide. For seasonal timing: Best Time to Visit China.